Getting Your First Bird

Once you've decided to get a bird, where do you go for the next step? What should you know before making the investment in a new companion? Below, I've listed some of the things that you should know before you stop by your nearest petstore and pick up your feathered friend.

1. Where to get your tiel from?

This is perhaps the most important step to do correctly. If you do not get your 'tiel from a place where birds are cared for well, it may well be a rocky first few days, if not months or years. How do you find a reputable place to get your bird from? The first thing I did was open up google and search for places that sold birds, and then I joined a forum and asked about what the more experienced owners thought of the places and how they looked. I did not take reviews for the locations very seriously, as I felt that some reviewers may not have known what to look out for if they were first time owners like I was. 

The forums that I visit for all of my questions are an excellent resource for me. If my bird is acting strangely or has a change in her habits, then I can ask first to see if she may be ill, or if she's just feeling different that day. Additionally, it's fun to be in a place where other bird owners can come and  talk about birds if your dog-loving friends don't quite understand what's so great about a flying fuzzball. (No offense to dogs ^ ^) 

After signing up for a forum, I introduced myself and began asking questions. I asked first of all where the experienced bird owners had gotten their pets and where they felt it was best to get them. I then asked what I should look for when choosing a location. Some of the best places to get birds from are places like this:

They specialise, at least somewhat, in birds. Some stores sell only birds, but the majority sell many things in addition to them, such as hamsters, dogs, cats, etc. As a general rule, animals like birds that require very specific care and more interaction don't tend to be very healthy if bought from a large retail pet store such as Petco or Petsmart. This is not to say that no good birds come from these places, but birds are a one-of-a-kind pet. From very early on, they need to be handfed. Essentially, this means putting a special syringe in their beak and feeding them a soft mush similar to a parent's feeding method. Needless to say, this is time consuming and requires staff on hand for the birds most of their first 20-30 days and after that for a bit less time. The birds also need social care. They must be handled and spoken to to be socialized. Because of the sheer amount of work that this entails along with feeding, most pet stores leave it to the parents, and as a result, the babies grow up not appreciating human care or presence much. They are considered "untame", even though they are not wild. 

There are however, many, many local pet stores with fewer charges and thus, more time for the staff to spend with each individual species of animal. This generally means that baby birds are getting more of the attention that they need and as a result, end up healthier, more socialised, and better equipped to be transferred to a new home. If you absolutely must, bigger chain pet stores can give you a bird that will live a good, healthy life, but it isn't as bright of a prospect as birds purchased from a local store or a bird-specific store. In the next section, I will be discussing how to pick the bird you are looking for. While a cage full of 'tiels is a new sight for you, remember that each one of them is an individual and should be carefully looked over to make sure that they are the right bird for you and will live a good life once you've gotten them home.

2. How to choose a bird

So, what to look for? Besides the gender of your bird and the flashy crest and cheeks, you should look for these signs when choosing your new bird. A healthy cockatiel will look like this:

-Have neat, smooth, clean feathers

-Have a clean vent and tail

-Have feet that look normal, are clean, and can perch and climb

-Have bright, curious eyes with no crusty bits around them

-Have light pink ceres and nares (nostrils) with no crusty bits

-Be curious. If the bird is hanging back when you approach the cage, or runs away from you before you reach it, it's probably not very tame or is fearful of people. You do not want your first bird to come with a year or more of work just to allow you to pet it. The bird should express some form of interest, whether it be standing a bit taller, looking at you, or even coming up to the cage bars to investigate you further.

-Be climbing, able to climb, or perching. If a bird is ill, it won't be as likely to move about or exert energy in ways such as climbing the cage bars, perching on its perches, or walking around on the floor of the cage. It will most likely just sit on the floor of the cage and look about if it is sick. Ill birds find it difficult to perch, so if the bird is avoiding perches or cannot stay balanced on a perch, it may be ill and you shouldn't buy that one.

As a general rule, the bird should look like it has a some life in it! If she/he looks tired, weak, or inactive, it probably is. This can be hard to tell, as birds are masters at hiding illness. You can also ask the store owner which bird they think is healthiest-looking. Most, but not all stores will give you time to take the bird to an avian vet and have it checked over. This is highly recommended, as the vet will be able to tell you if the bird is sick, when it may look perfectly fine.

3. When to get the bird

It is a good idea to get all of your supplies first, and then get the bird. When I picked up Arya, I made two trips. The first trip was to get the cage, food, perches, toys, and all of the supplies that I needed to get her set up. When you get home, set everything up. Put the cage together if it needs to be assembled, put down some substrate, hang up perches, place toys, and whatever else you may include for your bird. Set it up as if the bird is already living in the cage, leaving nothing to be done after you have the bird. This is because it is very stressful for the bird and you to be reading assembly instructions for a cage while your bird is sitting in an unfamiliar situation in a box or travel cage. After you have everything set up, go back and get the bird. Bring it home, put it in the cage, and leave it alone for a few minutes. I've made another post about how to interact with your bird for the first few days. You can read it here.

4. What to get the bird

Of course, you'll need a cage, but what else is necessary? This section is more of a list, so you can use it as a checklist of sorts.

-Cage. This should be at least 18" x 18" x 24". I have a larger cage for Arya, because I am at school for most of the day and she is alone. While she does fly in and out of her cage, when she has to be inside of it for an hour or so, she has room to entertain herself until she can come out again.

-Substrate (Bedding). I use newspaper, unshredded. Black and white is best, as there are no dyes for them to ingest if they choose to chew on the newspaper. Newspaper also doesn't release dust the way pine or aspen shavings do and can be digested more easily than these if your bird does choose to nibble at the bedding.

-Toys. You'll only need 2-4 toys to begin with. Your 'tiel will probably not play with them for the first few days, and may never like one or more of them. After your bird is adjusted to their surroundings, you can get more toys and rotate them in and out of the cage to keep your cockatiel happy and entertained.

-Perches. Perhaps the most important aspect of the cage, your bird's perches must be large enough and comfortable to their feet.

-Food and water dishes. Self-explanatory, they should be easy to clean, because birds are notorious for making a mess with food and at times, bathing in the water dish. You can have more than one set, and it is recommended that there be two food dishes, one for pellet, and one for fruits, veggies, and seed mixes. The water should be replaced at least daily, and for some owners, there is a twice daily changing of water. 

-Bathing dish (optional). Some bird like having water available to bathe in while inside their cage. I, personally, either mist Arya down with a spray bottle or simply take her in the shower with me so that she can catch some spray and wet her feathers. Getting the feathers damp helps to reduce dust for those with allergies or asthma, and it helps keep the feathers in tip-top condition. Newly grown-in feathers, called blood feathers or pin feathers, are coated in a keratin sheath that the humidity of a hot shower or the dampness of a spray bottle help to soften so that the bird can pull off the sheath while preening. These feathers are very uncomfortable for birds while they are growing, and in the wild, other flock members will pull the sheath off for each other. In the home, you can help out by giving them access to bathing options. (You can also rub off the sheath by yourself, but that's another story)

-Cuttlebone. Your bird needs calcium from a steady source, and since glass windows and doors block uvb rays, your birds may develop vitamin deficiencies that cuttlebone can help to replace. Additionally, hens lose lots of calcium and energy while laying eggs, so it's an especially good idea to have them around if you have any hens. (Your female cockatiel will lay eggs at some point in her life, whether or not there is a male around). Also, they like to have cuttlebone to scratch at with their feet and beaks, a slightly healthier alternative to having them clipped or shaven down every so often.

-Treats. Things like millet or seed work well. These are both for training, and just to give your 'tiel every now and then.

-Food. In addition to the seed mix and the greens your cockatiel will be eating, they will need some pellet. This will help to add necessary nutrients to their diet and will give them some flair in the daily eats. I have made a post on proper diet and nutrition for your bird here.

What to Feed Your Cockatiel

Feeding your bird right is of great importance. Poor diet can lead to a variety of diseases, all preventable by simply feeding your bird correctly. All-seed diets lead to fatty liver disease,  rickets, poor feather and skin health, malnutrition, a weak immune system, and premature death among other ailments. It is easy to get your bird eating right with a little work and patience. A healthy diet can make all the difference in the life of your feathered friend. They will be happier and healthier, both inside and out. A good diet will extend their lifespan, keep them protected against disease and help prevent egg binding in females.

Getting your bird eating right is, however, another issue. Our fids are like three year olds. If they are given the choice between seed or fresh, juicy carrots, they will choose the seed. Why? It's the same reason a three year old will choose a snickers bar over a carrot. It's sweet-tasting, fattening, sugary goodness. Birds do not have a moral compass telling them "well this seed looks tasty, but it'll make me fat and unhealthy, so I shouldn't have it." They are exotic pets, a.k.a they've kept most of their wild-born instinct. Thus, they see seeds and think, "this tastes good and I need fat and sugar to fly. This has fat and sugar!" Essentially, your pet is packing on the pounds as prep for miles of flight that he isn't going to fly. Our household birds don't fly hundreds of miles all day every day to burn off the fats from seed. BUT as wild-born instinct tells them, they very well may so it's best to eat for the occasion.

Enter you: bird owner, new or experienced, with a bird who eats crap (seed) all day. How to remedy this? You want your fid to eat well, you know how bad it is for him to eat seed. But no matter how many stalks of broccoli or carrot tops you put in his dish, he refuses to eat until you cave for fear of his starvation and throw in a bowlful of seed. If you're somewhat further along, maybe there's some pellet mixed in. How to get the bird to munch his greens!? Simple: be a chef. No, you don't have to make a gourmet dinner with three courses and a dessert to boot, or find some fancy ingredient from a faraway place. The best (non-italian) restaurants serve a dinky little dish of food for upwards of $50. We still buy it and eat the whole thing. Why? It looks GOOD. This is what you do for your bird. Don't just throw a carrot slice in his dish. Hang it from a toy, take his dishes away and stick a slice through the bars, wrap it in a Kleenex for him to shred before he gets to the apple cube. Thread strings of celery around his perches, push sprigs of broccoli through an empty paper towel roll and adorn it with corn kernels. Presentation is key here. 

So now we come to the question of what to feed your birds. In essence, greens and protein. Dark leafy greens like kale, spinach, and carrot tops are good choices. Orange foods like carrots and sweet potatoes have lots of vitamins A and B, which are good for birds who don't get a lot of natural sunlight. Bits of cooked egg or white meat are also good to have your bird consume every now and then. Once your bird has begun to eat right, it is always a good idea to keep them in the habit. Even if your bird is older and not prone to investigate or try new things, it is still worth it to get them on a good, healthy diet. 

That's all for this topic, feel free to comment, share your opinion, and +1 this post. Thanks!

The First Week

Once you've officially become a bird owner, it can be a struggle to keep your excitement down. Hopefully, you've done the research beforehand and you know what to do next. If not, no worries! I'll be discussing what you can expect in the first week after getting your cockatiel. This includes how to interact with the bird, how the bird may or may not react, and what you should and shouldn't do with your bird. Without further ado, let's start! 

1. Do not show your excitement to the bird. 

If you start doing a family dance around the bird's cage and poring over how pretty he is and talking over the phone to your aunt Sally about his feathers, your bird will get upset. Put yourself in their place: you've been taken from your home, the birds you knew, and placed in an unfamiliar place with lots of excited people who are talking loudly and moving around and gawking at you through your not-so-safe feeling cage bars. You're gonna be a little nervous and scared. Once you get your bird home, just leave him/her alone in their room for several minutes. This way, they can get used to the room a little and have time to be certain that there is no danger in the room. After this time, have one family member come into the room and sit with the bird. If you bring in more than this, the bird may feel stressed because he has to watch two or more potential threats pacing around his cage or sitting at different spots in the room. Have this family member sit close to the cage, but not up against it. Talk slowly and softly, keeping your voice calm and relaxed. Think of it as calming a child who just broke a favorite toy or dropped their ice cream cone. You have to tread lightly, because if you suddenly make noise or even stretch, you could stress out the bird. Your goal is to make certain that the bird is getting accustomed to his surroundings while being reassured that he will not be treated poorly in your home. After thirty minutes to an hour of talking to them, leave the room quietly and stay away for a couple of hours. Give the bird plenty of time to adjust, but also give him some attention and let him know he is safe and will be cared for. 

2. Don't try to touch the bird. 

Going along with number one, your bird is very uncertain of his situation. You will likely not be able to touch him for at least two to three weeks. You can, however, get him accustomed to your presence in his vicinity. When you refill his food and water dish, do it slowly and carefully so as not to alarm him. If you are comfortable, you can also try this trick to get your bird used to your hands in his cage. Reach into the cage and hold your hand there, not moving it for 30 seconds, then remove it. At first, your bird will probably run away from your hand, or frantically climb the cage bars to escape this perceived threat. This is normal, but with time and repeated exposure to this gesture, he will begin to understand that even when his space is invaded, nothing bad happens to him. Over time, he will stop running and simply watch your hand to see what it does. Once your bird is comfortable with this, put your hand in his cage and move one item around. For example, reach into the cage and hold your hand there for 30 seconds, then pick up a toy, turn it over or move it to a different spot, and then retreat your hand. This adds to the trust element between you and your bird. They will learn that not only can you put your hand in their cage, but you can shuffle things and he still will not be hurt by you. Just knowing that he is safe allows him to trust you much more than he did before. Rather than going on the side of caution, he is slowly but surely learning that caution is not always a must around you.

3. Feed him what he ate before.

Before you try a major diet change, you should let your bird adjust to you and your family. Your bird may seem to be shivering at first. This is because he is nervous and stressed. Once he is calm and adjusted to your family and his new lifestyle, it is easier and safer to change their diet. This is because their stress level from moving to your home has gone down and they are now calm around you. Because they are more relaxed, it will be easier on their bodies to accept a new diet, especially if they have been fed an all-seed diet or aren't open to trying new food. Your best bet is to wait and leave diet changes for later on, rather than take him home and scrap his unhealthy seed diet on the spot. 

4. Next steps...

Once your bird is accustomed to your hand and no longer is avoiding your presence, try getting them to step up. This is one of the bigger events in a bird owners life, when their bird begins to trust them enough to sit on their hand. To start this process, get your hand close to your bird and gently press against his abdomen, just above the legs. If he gets panicky or lunges at you, leave him alone for several minutes to calm down before trying again. If he lets you touch his abdomen, press backwards into it and he should step up. Note that your bird may appear to be preparing to bite you. If he looks calm and doesn't squabble, he probably won't. For birds, the beak is a third leg. It aids balance and climbing. If you've seen your bird climb his cage bars, you will notice this. When they reach towards your finger with their beak, it is only to test if your hand is steady enough to support their weight, the same way they would test a branch in the wild. When your bird is stepping up after you press on his belly, it is because he is losing his balance and choosing to hop onto your available, steady hand over the perch or table that he is being pushed from. This alone shows that your bird trusts you, because rather than choosing to turn and flee both the hand and the perch, they are choosing to trust you to hold them up. It is important that you hold your end of the bargain and don't shake or wiggle them about on your hand. This can be stressful and your bird may stop wanting to step up if he is jostled about whenever he does. 

5. Forever onwards!

Once your bird has become used to your hand and allows you to hold him, you are well on your way to having a happy, trusting relationship with your bird. He may become upset or angry, and you as well, but it is important that you not punish your bird. He will let you know when he is not feeling comfortable, and it is only right that you go at his pace. It is a long road, and not always lined with flowers, but in the end if you try hard and respect your bird, you will receive only love and loyalty in response.